黃富三臺灣大學：歷史學研究所曾品滄Tseng, Tsang-PinTsang-PinTseng2007-11-282018-05-292007-11-282018-05-292006http://ntur.lib.ntu.edu.tw//handle/246246/59580本文主要探討清代臺灣漢人，如何藉由農業生產活動來滋養整個移民社會，及其在此基礎上所形成的食物消費趨向。 主要研究方式有二：一、整體性地觀察，以生產體系的概念來觀察漢人小農生產的運作原理，分析體系內各農業部門的有機整合方式，並探討其在食物資源生產上的特性。二、將清代臺灣不同自然環境下的農業，區分成三種不同的農業生產體系：旱地型、水田型、山地型等，並對不同農業生產體系加以比較分析。藉以了解各體系食物資源取得與利用的共同性與特殊性。 從本文的討論得知，臺灣南部地區的旱地型，中、北部地區的水田型，和淺山地區的山地型，其在食物資源的生產上，皆具有不同的特色，此為構成臺灣各地區食物消費差異的主要原因；其共同點則是食物資源的生產依附於商品作物栽培之下。以具有強烈商品化性格、做為貿易輸出品的蔗、稻及茶做為主要作物。配合主要作物栽培之次要作物和其他農業部門的產物，構成了移民日常生活之基本食物的主要來源。 在消費方面，當這些食料品被轉化成維生性食物，即飯、菜、點心時，農家在炊爨、調理上也是以最節省資源，並能回饋生產體系的方式進行，這種作法將可使維生性食物之消費更進一步降低成本，也促使食物消費活動，和整個農業生產形成更密切聯繫。要言之，移民們不僅是以最低廉的成本，滿足基本食物需求，其食物消費活動也有助於其農業生產獲得最高利潤。 另一方面，漢人移民為了建構人際網絡、保健等需求，重視餐宴的舉辦、祭品的呈獻，並使用大量的嗜好品。因為重視這些高成本的非維生性食物消費活動，不僅大量消耗從農業生產上所獲得的豐厚利潤，也易對移民健康帶來不利的影響。成本低廉的維生性食物消費，與過度耗財之非維生性食物消費的強烈對比，可視為清代臺灣移墾社會之食物消費模式的重要特色。 除此之外，到了清末開港後，隨著一群富有、具品味之新興豪紳的興起，以及食物、食料來源擴大、流通管道增加，臺灣的食物消費開始有精緻化的傾向，一個精緻、具有品味之食物消費風格正在臺灣逐漸形成。Abstract: This dissertation is an exploration of how the Han of the Qing Dynasty in Taiwan nourished an immigrant society through various agricultural developments, and upon this foundation created for a trend of food consumption. There are two principal methods of research involved in this study: the first is comprehensive observation; using the concept of a production system to observe the principal of production in small Han Chinese farms, analyzing the method of integrated organic farming within this system of agriculture, and exploring the characteristics of its food resource production. Secondly, differentiating three systems of agricultural production in Taiwanese farming during the Qing Dynasty: the non-irrigated model, the paddy field model, and the hilly model, based on comparative analysis of agricultural production systems. This is done for the purpose of understanding various commonalities and particularities of acquisition and utilization of food resources of each model. Based on the discussion in this text, it will be shown that the production of food resources and their variance in the non-irrigated regions of southern Taiwan, the paddy field regions of the center and the north as well as the low lying hilly mountain regions, constitute the key reasons for differences in food consumption in the each region of the island; thus making the production dependence of food resources on commodity crop cultivation a common ground. After intense disposition towards commercialization of sugar cane, rice, and tea, they became the primary crops used in trade. Coordinating cultivation of primary crops and secondary crops in addition to other agricultural products constituted the main food source for basic foods in the everyday lives of immigrants. With respect to consumption, as these edibles were transformed into sustainable foods, namely rice, vegetables and dimsum, farmers prepared meals, they plowed the ash from their fires into the land thus replenishing the soil, in addition, they seasoned and salted foods thus preserving them, in this way they went a step further to decrease cost and urge food consumption; in doing so, the entire agricultural system became more closely integrated. In summary, immigrants not only utilized the lowest possible cost, fulfilling basic food demand, their activities of food consumption also enabled the agricultural system to reap high profits. On the other hand, in order to create an interpersonal network Han immigrants, physical wellbeing and other such demands, placed emphasis on holding banquets, the presentation of sacrificial offerings, and the wide use of addictive substances. Because they placed importance on cash crops, and non-sustainable agriculture, they not only largely consumed rich profits acquired in agricultural production, but also adversely affected the health of the immigrants. Low cost of sustainable food consumption, in sharp contrast to the excessive waste of land in non-sustainable food consumption, can be regarded as the significant feature for the agricultural societal shift in the pattern of food consumption during the Qing dynasty in Taiwan. In addition, towards the end of the Qing as ports were opened to more foreign imports, accompanying a general rise in affluence, the tastes of the rising gentry, the expansion of sources of general foodstuffs, and increase in trade, Taiwanese foods began a tendency towards the exquisite; one of delicacies, gradually creating a refined style of food consumption in Taiwan.第一章 緒論………………………………………………………………………1 一、研究旨趣…………………………………………………………………1 二、研究史回顧………………………………………………………………2 三、研究取徑、參考文獻及論述架構………………………………………7 第二章 臺灣自然環境與荷治、明鄭時期以前的農業發展……………………15 第一節 臺灣自然環境特色與原住民的農業生產………………………15 第二節 荷治至明鄭時期集約化農業的發展……………………………22 小結…………………………………………………………………………34 第三章 清代臺灣農業生產與食物資源利用 模式二：旱地型………………37 第一節 甘蔗、稻米栽培與糖、米生產……………………………………38 第二節 次要作物栽培與雜糧生產………………………………………49 第三節 從魚塭到果宅——家庭副業與周邊相關產業…………………56 第四節 旱地型農業的食物資源利用……………………………………65 小結…………………………………………………………………………79 第四章 清代臺灣農業生產與食物資源利用模式二：水田型…………………83 第一節 拓墾、水田化與水稻作的發展…………………………………84 第二節 水田型農業生產體系的構成……………………………………97 第三節 水田型農業的食物資源利用…………………………………108 小結…………………………………………………………………………117 第五章 清代臺灣農業生產與食物資源利用 模式三：山地型………………127 第一節 開港貿易與臺灣山區農業的發展………………………………128 第二節 山地型農業生產體系的構成……………………………………139 第三節 山地型農業的食物資源利用…………………………………152 小結………………………………………………………………………165 第六章 品味的形成——清代臺灣漢人的食物消費及其發展………………167 第一節、漢人移民的維生性食物消費……………………………………168 第二節、餐宴與嗜好品——漢人移民的非維生性食物消費……………184 第三節、食不厭精——精緻食物的消費及其發展………………………211 小結………………………………………………………………………222 第七章 結論……………………………………………………………………225 附錄………………………………………………………………………………233 參考書目…………………………………………………………………………243en-US農業生產體系食物消費物質生活漢人移民Agricultural Production SystemFood ConsumptionMaterial LifeHan Immigrants[SDGs]SDG2[SDGs]SDG12[SDGs]SDG15thesis