張長義臺灣大學：地理環境資源學研究所梁淳淳Liang, Chun-ChunChun-ChunLiang2007-11-262018-06-282007-11-262018-06-282004http://ntur.lib.ntu.edu.tw//handle/246246/54991成衣業為紡織業最下游產業，屬於勞力密集性高的產業。當今已形成全球國際分工生產的成衣業也是觀察經濟全球化最典型的產業。雖然台灣成衣業出口產值的比重下降，台灣在全球成衣生產鏈結上仍保持相當重要的角色。被放置在這樣一個全球成衣商品鏈的動力系統當中，廠商定位持續地受到挑戰、持續地進行調整與升級。 本研究採用全球商品鏈為研究取徑探究台灣成衣業面對全球成衣市場環境新舊不同變革影響下，在全球成衣商品鏈（GACC）中與領導買方、下游外包生產基地的競爭力調整機制，進一步探討台灣成衣外銷業近年是否持續地升級在鏈結中的定位。透過與廠商深度訪談資料，說明台灣成衣外銷業在全球商品鏈中與不同尺度下的行動者與制度環境之間的互動關係，並細緻化台灣成衣外銷業於全球商品鏈中定位升級與競爭能力調整之機制與進程。 產業或廠商的升級，需要在全球商品鏈上轉移到更高價值活動也可概念化為角色轉變。從研究討論可以發現由領導買方帶動的主要成果是「快速反應系統」。這是商品鏈中領導買方最大突破，將關鍵的行銷活動釋出與生產廠商密切結合，大幅提昇生產廠商配銷能力，提升領導廠商競爭力。過往支配全球生產區位地理分佈主要受紡織品配額制度與距離市場的地理位置影響。在此驗證成衣業的「快速反應」不僅影響廠商生產基地，對廠商生產基地區位的影響力更顯著增加。 美國與鄰近國家優惠貿易協定實施以來，區域經濟體內整合後貿易呈增加效果，排擠區域外貿易，造成區域外廠商至區域內投資設廠，作國際分工或策略聯盟。台灣成衣外銷廠商態度積極，關切資訊、投資環境、市場與產品趨勢。廠商間多生意上協助，主力產品具區隔性，較無訂單上激烈競爭，競爭壓力大多來自他國廠商。相關工會組織致力於垂直整合紡織業上中下游，使廠商競爭力結合政府資源與產業的優勢共同行銷。政府行使相關產業投資貿易政策，透過運用生產環境，維持提升廠商在商品鏈中之定位與競爭力。Apparel industry is the lowest stream of the textile industry, which belongs to one of the highly labor-concentrated industry. The apparel industry, which was turned into international production management, is also the most typical industry to observe the economical globalization. Even though the proportion of export value decreases for Taiwanese apparel industry, Taiwan still retains to play an important role in the global apparel commodity chains. Being placed on such a motive-powered system of global apparel commodity chains, the firms are to constantly operating the competitive adjustment and upgrading. This research adopts the “global commodity chains” as the research approach, and explores the subjects as follows – Facing the diverse reformations of global apparel market and environment all through the ages, how does Taiwanese apparel industry operate the competitive adjustment with leading buyers in the GACC？ Does Taiwanese apparel industry constantly upgrade its position in the GACC？Through the deepgoing information interviewed with firms, to explain the interactive relationships between Taiwanese apparel industry and global apparel commodity chains, which are under the different criterions of actors, systems, and environments. Going one step further, to detail the competitive adjustment and industry upgrading of Taiwanese apparel export firms in the global commodity chains in progress and functionality. The upgrading of industry or firm requires transferring to the higher-valued activities in the global commodity chains, which can be conceptualized as the shift in role. In the light of conclusion , it shows that the main achievement pushing by the leading buyers is “Q.R.”（quick response）. The maximum breakthrough of leading buyers in the global commodity chains is to release the critical marketing activities, and combine with the productive firms closely. This movement promotes the firms’ capabilities of disposition and marketing, and the competition among leading firms. The quota system of textile products and the location away from the market once dominated the geographical distribution of global productive zones. Here proves that the “Q.R.” of apparel industries not only influences the distribution of productive base of firms, also increases its effect upon the distribution of productive zone of firms in noticeable way. Since the preferential commerce agreement took effect between the United States and its neighboring countries, the economical interests within the area have been integrated, heightened, and edged out the economical individuals from outside the zone. Such phenomenon resulted in the firms outside the area to move into the zone in order to make investments, establish factories, work on international projects, or to set up strategic alliances. Apparel export firms in Taiwan are aggressive with a positive attitude to learn about new information about investment environment, the market and product trends. Business partners usually assist each other since the main products are differentiated, so there is not much fierce competition on orders. The competitive pressure comes from the firms in other countries mostly, instead of domestic ones. In order to link up the competition and advantageous position of industry with government resources, related labor unions have strived for integrating lower-middle-upper stream of the textile industry vertically, so the aim of mutual marketing can be accomplished. Through the use of productive environment, government exercises the investment and trading policies of related industries, to maintain and promote the position, competition of firms in the global commodity chains.目 錄 第一章 緒論……………………………………………………………………1 第一節 研究動機…………………………………………………………1 第二節 研究目的…………………………………………………………4 第三節 研究架構與研究流程……………………………………………5 第四節 研究方法與研究對象……………………………………………8 第二章 理論與文獻回顧……………………………………………………13 第一節 全球經濟發展與彈性專殊化模式………………………………13 第二節 全球產業生產網絡與全球商品鏈的形塑………………………20 第三節 全球生產網絡與全球商品鏈相關經驗研究………………….30 第四節 台灣成衣產業相關經驗研究……………………………………32 第五節 中心研究焦點與研究取徑………………………………….…...34 第三章 台灣成衣外銷業在全球成衣商品鏈的定位變遷歷程….....36 第一節 成衣業的全球化歷程………………………………….………...36 第二節 台灣成衣業發展歷程…………………………………………....38 第三節 台灣成衣外銷業在全球成衣商品鏈中的定位變遷……………42 第四章 台灣成衣外銷業在全球商品鏈中的定位升級與競爭力調整 之分析…...……………………………………………………………45 第一節 領導廠商（買方）與台灣大型成衣外銷生產廠商之互動機制 與權力結構關係…………………………………….……….…..47 第二節 台灣成衣外銷生產廠商全球佈局之空間分析…………………74 第三節 在地制度環境與產業企業態度影響之分析…………….……...90 第五章 結論與建議………………………………….……………….…....…96 第一節 研究結論…………………………………………………………96 第二節 後續研究建議…………………………………………………..103 引用文獻與附錄………………………………………………………….……104904493 bytesapplication/pdfen-US競爭力調整成衣業產業升級全球商品鏈global commodity chainsapparel industrycompetithesishttp://ntur.lib.ntu.edu.tw/bitstream/246246/54991/1/ntu-93-R90228021-1.pdf