https://scholars.lib.ntu.edu.tw/handle/123456789/14462
標題: | 摩登張愛玲:時尚意識與女性主體 “Modeng” Elieen Chang: Fashion Consciousness and Female Subjectivity |
作者: | 張小虹 | 關鍵字: | 張愛玲;現代性;時尚意識;上海研究;商品文化;Eileen Chang;Modernity;Shanghai Studies;Fashion Consciousness;Commodity Culture | 公開日期: | 31-七月-2001 | 出版社: | 臺北市:國立臺灣大學外國語文學系暨研究所 | 摘要: | 3 晚近學界對「流行時尚」與「現代性」之勾連,提出了相當豐碩之研 究成績,不僅一方面凸顯流行時尚在線性進步時間觀下推陳出新的各種自我 呈現方式,更同時啟動另一種對歷史的懷舊,以循環復古的方式錯置時空感。 本計劃即企圖以此新視野,重新切入張愛玲作品與其時代氛圍之閱 讀,聚焦於都會現代性與時尚意識之形塑,探討三0、四0年代的上海殖民 都會如何以其城市現代性重塑性別主體,如何以其炫目的商品文化改變感知 結構。大體上將分為三個方向進行:(一)區辨前現代性與現代性性別主體, 凸顯服飾——身體——主體性之互動關連(二)強調女性主體建構中的物質 基礎,探討美容院、時裝秀、流行雜誌等如何形塑張愛玲的女性市民主體與 其現代性文學技巧(三)攝影、電影與廣告在影像文化上之日趨主流,如何 推波助瀾於女人(女作家)成為商品展示與景觀社會的一部份。 故本計劃不僅企圖重新「摩登化」張愛玲之閱讀,更冀望將其重新鑲嵌於三0、 四0年代五光十色的上海都會文化,展示其都會世故性、都會流變性與都會表演性 對女性主體之影響,以與舊鴛蝶派小說與新感覺派小說的男性觀點做差異對話。 Characterized as social, economic, aesthetic, sexual, psychological formations, fashion tends to stand as one of the major defining features of modernity. On the one hand, it offers a flexibility of self-representation in the rapid change of time by encoding a shifting “now-ness” with constant innovations. It enacts, on the other hand, a magical accession to the past by perpetuating a recycling of history. In the words of Walter Benjamin, “fashion is a tiger’s leap into the past.” This research project aims at re-visioning Eileen Chang’s works from this newly developed connection of urban modernity and fashion consciousness. It attempts to resituate Chang’s writing in the cultural and material matrix of Chinese urban modernity by taking the semi-colonized Shanghai, the Paris of Asia in the 30s and 40s, as its major metropolitan setting. It tries to explore how the transformation of gendered subjectivity is deeply implicated in the fluctuations of modern fashion and how the fascinating power of commodity culture helps to reshape modern sensibility. Three major aspects will be foregrounded in this studies: (1) the differentiation between pre-modern notion of costume and modern notion of fashion conducted under the dynamics of clothing, body, gender and modernity (2) the material social formation of female subjectivity and the fashion impact on Chinese “modern” women, including Chang, her mother, her aunt, and her close female friends (3) urban women’s relationship to commodity–on-display under the advent of the image culture and the spectacle society facilitated by the power of photography, film and advertisement. Through a textual, historical and materialist analysis, this research project will draw out the gender difference of urban vision between women’s perspective developed in Chang’s writing and the andro-centric focus provided by both the semi-traditional fictions of the Butterfly school and the city novels by neo-sensationalists. It will thus hope to highlight the dynamics of material culture and psychic formation in the development of fashion consciousness of Shanghai women during the 30s and 40s. |
URI: | http://ntur.lib.ntu.edu.tw//handle/246246/10096 | 其他識別: | 892411H002083 | Rights: | 國立臺灣大學外國語文學系暨研究所 |
顯示於: | 外國語文學系 |
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892411H002083.pdf | 123.83 kB | Adobe PDF | 檢視/開啟 |
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